Yesterday was J’Ouvert and it got me feeling nostalgic so I revisited the photos I took in 2013 and processed a few that I had never processed before. So here ya go, never before seen photos from my J’Ouvert project.
J’Ouvert is a spin off of the French Carnival tradition that began as a way for enslaved Caribbeans to ridicule their oppressors. Rather than the prim and proper ball with fine clothes and high manners, the J’ouvert revelers covered themselves in mud, paint, or oil and enacted Dionysian celebrations in the street. There was a lot of political commentary as well.
I went to J’Ouvert most years over a ten year stretch. I think it was where I felt most at home during my time in New York. I’m sure I was attracted by the insanity and danger and subversive politics and sexuality and partying and the general feeling that things could spin out of control at any moment, which they always did at least somewhere along the route. A few people die violently there most years. There is definitely an element of danger.
As with most of the important things in my life, I knew nothing about J’Ouvert until I randomly stumbled onto it. I used to routinely get up at or before dawn and explore different parts of south Brooklyn. One morning I was over near Nostrand Avenue and ran into a crowd of very drunken painted people, many of whom were wearing horns, and several of whom were simulating sex in the street. I reverse engineered their route up to Nostrand and saw the remains of the celebration and a few of the last stragglers stumbling here and there, the street filled with trash and various Caribbean flags blowing around. I learned the name of the celebration was J’Ouvert and made a note to go earlier next year. And so I did.
My J’Ouvert always started a few hours before dawn with a walk over to Empire Boulevard where the parade starts. I’d see some strange scenes on that walk.
For me to fit in and be able to physically handle the challenges that J’Ouvert presents, it was necessary to adjust my chemical composition in various ways. Back then I had prescriptions for pain killers and amphetamines, so I’d always start the morning with a little pharmaceutical speedball. Once I got to the parade, there were people selling alcohol so I’d get on the same wavelength as the revelers by having a couple Heinekin and then some jello shots. People would paint me or smear oil on my face along the way, so by the time I got to the end of the route, I fit right in. Karmically anyway. Visually I stood out like a big pink sore thumb.
The parade kicks off at day break, but there’s a lot going on in the dark beforehand. It was only the last two years I went that I started at the museum the night before and was there at midnight with a big chunk of the revelers. That’s a long night of drinking and music. But the energy constantly builds until the dawn when it explodes and moves on down Empire Boulevard.
Then there’s the middle route where the sun is coming up and it’s getting light and the floats and marchers spread out a bit.
Eventually, it takes a right turn at Nostrand. Most of the big floats peel off there and the real craziness goes to a different level. People are really wasted by that point. So am I.
Then it’s over and people start coming back to reality. If you’ve ever came out of something real weird and back into the mundane, bourgeois existence, you have some sense of how I felt riding a few stops on the subway. Decompression, they call it. Best not to do it to fast lest there might be negative repercussions.
All that was in 2013 so I guess I’ve been more or less decompressed for 11 years and a day now. It’s starting to feel a bit tiresome. This year, for example, for Labor Day I did my little pharmaceutical speedball, which ain’t what it used to be, drank a bottle of wine and took my wife to see Hamilton. I needed the faux speed to to stay awake though a two and a half hour show and the pain pill to keep me just on the right side of pure agony squished in my torturous little chair in the cheap seats. Lola was dressed very proper for a woman of a certain age. No paint, no oil, no face covered with talcum powder. And although the play was superficially something like J’Ouvert - it’s about a Caribbean guy with a heavy dose of politics with music and singers and dancers - but it’s nowhere near the same.
Your J'Ouvert photos are magnificent. Now I'm sorry I didn't go all the way to Nostrand. Next year!